Until a few days ago, if you had asked me about the history of the Pisco Sour, I would have told you that the Pisco Sour was invented by Victor Morris at his bar in Lima during the 1920’s. And though Chile also claims to have invented the Pisco Sour, documents such as printed advertisements or his bar’s register show that Pisco Sours were being served at the Morris Bar before anywhere else. But a recent discovery of a Peruvian cookbook from 1903 made me question everything I thought I knew about the origin of the Pisco Sour. This cookbook, Nuevo Manual de Cocina a la Criolla (Lima 1903), suggests that the origin of the Pisco Sour may be a traditional creole cocktail made in Lima over 100 years ago.
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Exploring The Pisco Trail
You can make all the Pisco cocktails in the world, but if you want to understand Pisco, really experience it like never before, and get a sense of its unique history and terroir, then you need to explore the Pisco Trail and travel to its birthplace — the Ica Valley of Peru. Here, for centuries, haciendas at the foothills of the Andes mountains have been growing grapes, making wine, and of course distilling it into Pisco. And a visit to the wineries in the Ica Valley will teach you about four essentials: technique, history, craft, and terroir.
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Astrid + Gaston: The Journey
My trip to Peru last September included a long list of food destinations, such as the Mistura food festival or Chez Wong’s secret ceviche hideaway. But I also really wanted to visit Astrid + Gaston, not only because Gaston Acurio’s restaurant was recently ranked number 1 in South America and number 14 in the world by San Pellegrino, but also because their tasting menu “El Viaje” was about a journey from Italy to Peru, and the theme of cultural fusions always fascinates me. So when I was able to get lunch reservations for two, I immediately invited my uncle, who shocked me when his first response was no. Why wouldn’t someone want to eat at one of Peru’s most famous restaurants? You clearly haven’t met my uncle.
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Peru’s Goddesses of Food
If you follow news in the food world, then you are likely up to date on all the controversy surrounding the recent article by Time on the “Gods of Food” — it published a list of people recognized for their influence on food today, and of all the chefs who made the list, not a single one was female. To make matters worse, the editor tried to explain the reasoning behind this in an interview with Eater. In response, Grub Street came up with their “Goddesses of Food” list, 10 world class chefs who are women, and the LA Times wrote a piece on California’s female chefs. All this made me reflect on the role of women in Peruvian cuisine. Does Peru have it’s own Goddesses of Food? And if so, who are they?
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Chez Wong’s Secret Ceviche Hideaway
Lima is famous for its huariques, secret hideaway restaurants with no signs on the door, often in a barrio where you would least expect to find good food. Somehow you heard about one, maybe a friend had eaten there, they’ve managed to make a reservation, but you drive past it several times because it’s a nondescript house in the residential neighborhood of Santa Catalina that is overcrowded with auto-repair shops. This is a place you would never find by chance, and if you are fortunate enough to have lunch here, this is a meal you will never forget. This is Chez Wong’s secret ceviche hideaway.
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